Merry Christmas – Feliz Natal

Rabanadas e vinho do Porto Tawny - French toast and Tawny Port

Rabanadas e vinho do Porto Tawny – French toast and Tawny Port

Já recebi uma entrega das rabanadas frescas e ainda quentes!  Com um copo do vinho do Porto Tawny… fantastico.

I just received a delivery of fresh, still-warm rabanadas!  This is a Portuguese dessert like french toast, but better than any french toast I have ever had.  With a glass of Tawny Port – fantastic.

Bom Natal e bom ano novo a todos, de Porto!  A Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to everyone from Porto!

Christmas in Porto

Feliz Natal do Porto! Merry Christmas from Porto!

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Bacalhau Dourado

Ingredientes poucos e simples

Read Golden Bacalhau in English.

No último verão tive o melhor bacalhau de sempre no Restaurante Beira Rio, no Tua, e perguntei o nome e como era feito ao meu amigo que almoçou comigo nesse dia.  Ele disse que se chama Bacalhau Dourado e explicou brevemente como se faz – é uma mistura de batata, bacalhau, cebola e ovos mexidos cozinhado com muito azeite (como toda a comida portuguesa!).  Finalmente, hoje, eu tentei cozinhar eu própria.

Se calhar fiéis leitores lembram-se do meu bacalhau de Natal, que eu demolhei durante as férias e, no final, arrumei no congelador.  Então, ontem à noite retirei alguns pedaços do congelador e preparei para cozinhar hoje.

A ultima natação

Almoço com a minha professora de português, Joana

É melhor do que aparece, prometo!

Não tinha uma receita (tenho uma revista Teleculinaria com 65 receitas de bacalhau –mas não ESTA receita!!) então eu arrisquei como se faz.  O primeiro passo é cozer o bacalhau e deixar arrefecer.  Quando puder tocar sem se queimar, remova a pele e as espinhas e esfie o bacalhau.

Próximo passo, descasque e corte as batatas em palitos, frite-as e deixe de lado.  Eu pus numa travessa no fogão para as manter quentes – e não me lembrei até ao minuto final, mas felizmente não ficaram queimadas.

Depois, corte uma grande cebola a meio, e depois às rodelas e deixe de lado.

Mexa os ovos, e deixe a taça perto da placa.

Então, agora começamos a parte mais excitante.  Deixe refogar a cebola em azeite (muito azeite!) e adicione o bacalhau e as batatas fritas.  Mexa, deixe a alourar, (sem dúvida precisa de mais azeite!) e finalmente, junte os ovos mexidos.  Continue a mexer até os ovos estarem cozinhados como desejar.

Ponha nos pratos, decore com azeitonas e talvez mais azeite, e coma!

Posted in em Português, Miscellany, Portugal | Tagged , | 7 Comments

Harvest

Though I spent last week mostly in the Douro for the harvest of a few selected parcels, I return today for the start of full-on harvest – all the Symington wineries will be opened, all the grapes will be picked across all their quintas.

Though I will be based at Quinta do Tua and blogging for Graham’s again, I will also be blogging on The Vintage Port Site, reporting on the harvest across all the Symington brands (Graham’s, Dow’s, Warre’s, Cockburn’s, Quinta do Vesuvio to name the most widely known).

The harvest period is such hard work for all concerned, personally I find it equally exhilarating and exhausting.  I love being outdoors basically from sunrise to sunset every day (being inside the wineries occasionally doesn’t feel “indoors” the way being in an office or in a city does) though I pay for it by having to be in the quinta office or house and on the internet very early mornings and late into the night to get the writing and posting done.

Still, it is worth it, and there are always moments, details, that refresh me when I am most exhausted.  Like looking down at the boots I bought two weeks ago because they were exactly the colour of 30 Year Old Tawny, and realising the Douro dust has made them indistinguishable from the old boots… or the ground…

Or watching five birds of prey gliding and circling on the breeze above Vilariça.  Or catching the magical moment when the rising sun crests the hill and the entire landscape around me changes in the light.

Posted in Douro | 4 Comments

Um Copo do Vinho do Porto – A Glass of Port

Acho que o vinho do porto é o melhor vinho da meditação.  Rico, doce, descontraído, este copo do vinho inspira ideias, emoções, confiança, fé.  Hoje eu provei um vinho do porto feito por um amigo que tem uma quinta no Douro Superior, e faz vinhos, na maior parte das vezes, só para a sua família e amigos.  É um vinho de Touriga Nacional feito em 2000, que está a envelhecer nas pipas na cave da sua casa nos altos, e que ele engarrafou ontem para nós bebermos hoje.

A cor é um tawny cor de laranja muito escuro e rico.  O aroma é muito sedutor.  Eu estava a cheirá-lo por tanto tempo até que ele me perguntou porque não estava a beber.  Na boca, pode apreciar o efeito da madeira, a concentração, está como se nada permenacesse no vinho que não é essencial, puro sabor, pura amizade, pura meditação.

Port wine must be the ultimate wine for meditation.  Rich, sweet, relaxing, this glass of wine inspires ideas, emotions, trust, faith.  Today I tasted a wine made by a friend who has a quinta in the Douro Superior and makes wines for the most part only for his family and friends.  This is a wine of Touriga Nacional made in 2000, which is ageing in casks in the cellar below his house in the highlands, and which he bottled just yesterday for us to enjoy today.

The colour is a tawny, very dark rich orange.  The nose is very seductive, I was enjoying the scent for so long he asked why I wasn’t drinking.  In the mouth, you can appreciate the effect of the wood, the concentration, it is as if nothing remains in the wine that is not essential, pure flavour, pure friendship, pure meditation.

Posted in Miscellany, Portugal | Tagged , | 6 Comments

New Year’s Resolution – em Português

One day last summer, in a tiny Douro village, I stopped at a café with colleagues.  Whilst they drank their coffee, I played with the sugar packets.  They were printed with words and phrases to demonstrate some recent changes in spelling standards, and I realised yet another reason I am struggling with my Portugese comprehension:  The Orthographic Accord.

A few years ago someone decided to change the way everything is spelled, to harmonise European Portuguese with Brazilian.  As the new spellings do away with a lot of letters and accents, more and more words sound and now look on paper the same, even though they aren’t.  For example, on this sugar packet:

Este cão tem muito pelo.  Vais pelo bom caminho.

This dog has a lot of fur (pelo).  You go by (pelo) the good path.

The word for fur used to be pêlo.  But they decided to throw out the accent, so now the word for fur is identical to the preposition pelo (by + masculine definite article, por + o = pelo).

O comboio que vai para o Porto não para no Entroncamento.

The train which goes via (para) Porto doesn’t stop (para) at Entroncamento.

Once again a preposition (para) can no longer be distinguished from another word, in this case the verb para (he-she-it stops) which used to be spelled pára, until they threw out the accent.  It’s still pronounced as if the accent is there, but in writing there’s no difference.

My biggest hurdle in language learning is listening comprehension – I am just plain slow at the work of sorting out the sounds into recognisable words, and often due to vocabulary limitations, I just don’t recognise the words, because I haven’t learned them yet.

Very frustrating, so I tend to focus on my comfort zone of reading, and rely on written language to learn, or double check my comprehension.  Now, with the Orthographic Accord even that is going to be more of a struggle, since I will be less certain WHICH word this really is – the preposition or some other word which has lost the distinguishing marks that helped me figure it out before.

On the other hand, one New Year’s resolution is to get through this and become more fluent by year end.  I need to build vocabulary and I need to sort out my grammar.  To that end, I am doing two things:

First, I am trying to read more on wider variety of topics, not just the Revista de Vinho.  Magazines are a big help as they often use a more conversational tone and vocabulary, they cover a wider range of topics, and if I really cannot figure out the words… at least I understand the photos!!

Second, I am again taking lessons, and will be using proposed texts for bi-lingual blog stories as a basis for practice and discussion.  So … we’ll see.

E agora… em Português…

Certo dia, no último verão, numa pequenina aldeia do Douro, parei num café com alguns colegas.  Enquanto eles bebiam os seus cafés, eu brincava com os pacotes de açúcar.  Neles estavam escritas palavras e frases para mostrar as mudanças da nova ortografia.  E apercebi-me, mais uma vez, da razão porque estou a lutar com o Português:  O Acordo Ortográfico.

Há alguns anos, alguém decidiu mudar como tudo é escrito, para harmonizar e simplificar a escrita do Português Europeu com todos os outros países lusófonos.  Porque com a nova ortografia se perdem muitas letras e acentos, mais palavras parecem iguais embora não sejam.  Por exemplo, neste pacote de açúcar:

Este cão tem muito pelo.  Vais pelo bom caminho.

A palavra pelo (cabelo na pele dos animais) parece igual à contração da preposição por e o artigo o (pelo).

O comboio que vai para o Porto não para no Entroncamento.

Mais uma vez, não se pode distinguir a preposição para (o Porto) e a forma verbal para (como cessar) que costumava ser escrita como pára.  A pronunciação é a mesma, mas na escrita não há diferença.

O meu maior obstáculo é a compreensão oral – quando ouço alguém a falar, tenho de literalmente separar os sons nas palavras que reconheço e, muitas vezes, por causa das limitações de vocabulário, não reconheço as palavras porque ainda não as aprendi.

Muito frustrante, então, tendo a concentrar-me na minha “comfort zone” de leitura e a confiar na língua por escrito para aprender ou verificar novamente a minha compreensão.  Agora, com o Acordo Ortográfico até isso vai ser mais difícil, porque vou ter menos certeza de QUAL palavra se trata na verdade – a preposição ou qualquer outra palavra que perdeu as suas marcas distintivas que antes me ajudavam a a descobrir.

Por outro lado, um dos meus desejos do ano novo é ultrapassar este problema e tornar-me mais fluente antes do fim do ano. Tenho de ganhar mais vocabulário e tenho de melhorar na gramática.  Para isso, estou a fazer duas coisas:

Em primeiro lugar, estou a tentar ler mais numa maior variedade de tópicos, não só a Revista de Vinho!  As revistas são uma grande ajuda porque usam, muitas vezes, um tom e um vocabulário mais coloquial, cobrem uma maior variedade de tópicos, e, se eu não posso descobrir as palavras… pelo menos compreendo as fotos!

Em segundo lugar, estou mais uma vez a ter aulas e vou usar histórias bilíngues no blogue para prática da língua e discussão.  Então… vamos ver!

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Censorship Protest

Generally I am not a very politically aware or involved person, the issues just feel way too big for me to either grasp or influence.  But this gets me where I live and work.  Whilst I am sickened by the piracy of copyrighted content, two pieces of legislation currently pending in the American House and Senate (known as SOPA and PIPA) are disproportionate and ill-thought out in their proposed response, and will permit uncontrolled actions against sites – and will no doubt themselves be abused grossly.  They also apparently include features which could de-stabilise the internet generally.

“(The bill) contains provisions that will chill innovation. It contains provisions that will tinker with the fundamental fabric of the internet. It gives private corporations the power to censor. And best of all, it bypasses due legal process to do much of it.”  James Allworth, Harvard Business School

Under the proposed legislation, it appears this blog could be shut down by James Allworth or The Harvard Business Review if they objected to my quoting his article just now – and my blog would get shut down first on their mere say-so, and only after I initiated proceedings and fought (and paid for) a battle through the courts, could I be vindicated and the site opened again.  Imagine the scope for malicious activity there!

Click on the black ribbon on the top right of the blog page which will be displayed until 24 January when votes will take place in Congress.  Clicking will take you to the Stop American Censorship website to learn more about the proposals in the US House and Senate and how they could impact us all if passed.  The site also includes petitions and action steps for those who vote in America.

Another good video I found (thanks for the tipoff, Escape the City!!)

Update 19 Jan:  we had an effect:  read this article in the New York Times-International Herald Tribune about the impact Internet based protests had on legislators and their opinions, but we need to keep the pressure going.  Follow the link to the Stop American Censorship website to learn more, and if you vote in America, they have mechanisms on that site to send a message to your representatives in Congress to express your opposition to the proposed legislation.

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Ancient Lagar

Recently I was in the Douro with a friend, who took me to visit some areas I had not seen before.

We passed through some aldeias (villages) high above the north bank of the river and then we pulled over seemingly in the middle of nowhere.  As I scrambled out of the car, this is what I saw – a shallow, broad trough carved out of solid granite.

My friend, a wine maker and viticulturist himself, pointed out the details that explain exactly what this was – an ancient lagar where grapes were pressed.  The “mail slot” looking hole in the rock in the top photo and the two slots on the opposite side of the lagar visible in the second photo would have held the uprights of a press, which would have crushed grapes piled in the stone trough, or lagar.

In the third photo if you look carefully you can see a canal cut across the lagar leading to a notch in the lip of the rock at the top right, where the grape must would have run out of the press.

There is no knowing how old this is.  The Douro, particularly the area around Foz Coa has been settled for time out of mind, and legend has it Bacchus himself planted the first grapes in the Douro:  he stopped here in his travels and asked for something to drink, and whilst he was grateful for the cold water he was given, felt the locals could do rather better, and gave the region the grape vines that have thrived here ever since.  Perhaps he returned to this place to show them what to do with their first harvest.

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The Last of the Bacalhau

Sr Rui makes short work of the bacalhau reducing it to steaks in just a few minutes

… At least for now.  I took the monster from my fridge to the butcher’s today, and Senhor Rui reduced it to manageable steaks in a matter of moments.  They are now wrapped up in my deep freeze, to be cooked up and served forth another day.

Meanwhile, I still have the smaller pieces I cooked yesterday, so will certainly have some other bacalhau dish tonight or tomorrow to use them up.

Two more photos before and after, as much as anything because I love his cutting block – it is a slice of tree trunk set on stainless steel legs, and clearly has seen much service, it is so worn down in the centre.  This one is in the back room, there is another out front, behind the cases of meat for sale, where he works to just trim or prepare your purchases.

Before

Moments later

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Finally! A Meal!

Good news:  I saw the butcher today and he will cut up the main hunk of bacalhau for me tomorrow, hallelujah!

More good news:  Finally had my first taste of the bacalhau, for a late lunch this afternoon.  The little side pieces I had managed to trim off on the first day from the still dried fish were small enough for me to poach and prepare today for lunch.

From what I have been told and read, all bacalhau is first poached, then the skin and bones removed, and then the meat is either consumed as is, or used as a basis for more elaborate dishes.  I went for more elaborate – I adore bacalhau com natas, which means with cream.  Every recipe I have is designed to feed 10 people, and I am not exaggerating.  It actually makes some sense – I have to say wrestling with this monster to make just one meal for just one person is pretty silly.  But… all I needed was to feed myself this afternoon, so I improvised.  Purists will probably howl, but… here’s what I did.

Poached the scrappy bits of soaked, salt-free bacalhau in a court bouillion (water, a bit of white wine, bay leaf, onion, cracked pepper), set aside and when cool enough to handle cleaned off the skin and a few stray bones.  Most recipes will tell you to strain off the poaching liquid (which is usually just water, milk or a bit of both) and use it to make a basic white sauce which will get a little cream added to it at the end – this way you have lots of sauce for that casserole to feed ten hungry people without the expense of too much cream.  I didn’t bother with making the white sauce.

Doesn't look like much, but it did taste good! Bacalhau com natas

Sautéed sliced onions in olive oil, set aside.  Sautéed cubed potato in olive oil.  Mixed up the potato, onion and the bacalhau torn into small pieces, added some pepper and grated nutmeg and piled all that into a small single-serving casserole dish, covered with cream (I have no cholesterol – yet!) and baked for about 45 minutes.

I am pleased to report, it was pretty good, only… it needed a little salt!

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Bacalhau Update

The fish is winning.

It’s de-salted and the flesh has fluffed up into quite a thick piece down the centre.  The next step is to either poach it or freeze it.  Just one little problem…

I got the two thin side bits cut down to sizes to fit in a pan and be poached, but the main hunk of beast is hopeless.  I have no pan it will go in, and no knife that will cut it – those bones are like steel girders.  At this point, I have wrapped it up tightly and tucked it into the bottom shelf of the fridge and will cross fingers it stays in good condition till Tuesday, when I will go beg my beloved butcher for assistance reducing this thing to manageable pieces that will either fit in a pan or fit in the freezer.

Tomorrow I will use the small bits to make bacalhau com natas – cod buried in potatoes and swamped with cream.

Lesson learned:  get it cut up FIRST, in its dry salted state.

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